CHAPTER XXXVI

It has been truly said that a climax of splendor and inappropriateness in dress characterizes fashion at the present time. Costly fabrics and jewels are beautiful when worn appropriately, but there are occasions when they are out of place.

Authorities in good taste always claim that successful dressing lies in the avoidance of over-decoration or exaggeration, and the adapting of each novelty to individual requirements.

The expression 'simplicity in dress' is often misleading. It does not signify what in ancient days meant white muslin and blue ribbons. It means rather the avoidance of complex designs in fashions, or abundance of trimming, and it stands for perfection in cut. To dress in accordance with one's means and circumstances does not imply that a woman of wealth should don extravagant attire. On the other hand, to dress more expensively than one can afford is to lose the respect of others.

The street dress is of first importance. A strictly tailor-made gown is essential to a modern woman, and when expense is not to be considered one of these dresses is purchased at the beginning of every spring and winter season.

In winter for the street in th the morning a fown of dark cloth, rough or smooth, a hat not too large, calfskin boots and dogskin gloves are worn.

Fine cloth or velvet is worn when going to afternoon receptions in winter, and although light colors and elaborate trimmings are seen in the street, these costumes are more appropriate when driving. White kid gloves and patent-leather shoes are for afternoon dress.

For church a woman's dress should be inconspicuous and not suggest that it has occupied her thoughts, nor that it is worn to attract attention. Large hats in church interfere with the view of those who sit in the rear.

The attire for golf is a short cloth skirt, flannel waist, soft felt hat plainly trimmed. A jacket of red cloth is affected by some persons. In warm weather a skirt and shirt-waist of white duck, a hat of stitched duck or a straw sailor hat, or Panama hat are worn by young girls. Chamois gloves buttoned on the back of the hand, russet shoes with rubber on the soles are worn.

For automobiling a long, loose coat, heavy gloves with gauntlets, a hat rather small, without feathers, and which will defy the wind, and a large chiffon veil securely fastened are for comfort.

The conventional riding-habit is of black or Oxford-gray cloth, severely plain. The coat is a tight-fitting, three-quarter coat, almost touching the saddle and cut away in front. It is worn over a waistcoat or shirt-waist. The skirt fits the figure and just covers the foot when the rider is in the saddle. Knee-breeches or black tights are under the skirt. A Derby hat, white pique stock, dogskin gloves, riding-boots and crop complete the attire. The coat is unbuttoned in summer, or coat and waist-coat are discarded. The innovation in riding-habits is the divided skirt for children or very young girls for country use in cross-saddle riding, but it has not found much favor as yet. A loose sack coat is worn with it over a shirt-waist. A black sailor hat is used for riding in summer in the country.

For every function of society held in the daytime dresses high in the neck are worn. When having 'days at home' dresses of light-weight cloth or chiffon-cloth in pale colors, silks, crepe de Chine, or fine woollen fabrics are worn by young women and girls; darker gowns or handsome black gowns by older women.

Tea gowns are not worn at teas, in spite of the name. They are not worn when receiving visitors except for a most informal occasion, when an intimate woman friend comes in for a cosey chat, but they are used rarely.

If an informal dinner or dance is to follow an afternoon tea the young girls receiving may wear dresses with an open cut about the throat, thin sleeves or short sleeves with long gloves, but never decollete dresses in the afternoon.

At dinners, balls, evening parties, and in opera boxes low-necked gowns are worn. Married women wear handsome satins, velvets, crepes, or spangled nets. In stalls at the opera high-necked gowns are worn, although low-necked gowns are preferred by some persons.

At balls young girls wear dresses of light, diaphanous materials, tulle, chiffon or crepe de Chine. A young girl's dress is never very low in the neck. Girls of medium height sometimes prefer dresses to touch or clear the floor. Tall girls look best in trains. Slippers of satin to match the color of evening gowns are worn, or slippers of gold or silver tinsel cloth. No jewelled ornaments are seen on young girls except, perhaps, a string of pearls around the throat. Married women wear their rarest jewels.

It is not yet considered good form to wear gowns cut low in the neck when dining in public. This fashion, which prevails in England, has not met with general approval here. Gowns with unlined yokes of lace or chiffon are chosen and hats are worn. Theatre dresses and reception dresses worn at home are very similar and may be of silk, or lace, or chiffon-cloth and are used for dining in public. These dresses have long skirts and are worn when driving, not when on foot, and are covered by long wraps when going to the play. Hats are removed at 'the play,' as the term is now. A pretty bodice may be worn with a skirt of silk or cloth if one does not wish elaborate attire.

At a day wedding the mother of the bride usually wears a gown of velvet, fine cloth, silk or crepe de Chine of mauve or gray, and a toque or small hat, if it is a church wedding, and retains her hat after returning to the house.

Bridesmaids' dresses are suggested in another chapter. Bridesmaids wear black patent-leather slippers and black silk stockings. Flower girls or children with short dresses wear black stockings and patent-leather pumps or ties with plain, rather low heels.

Gloves are removed when taking one's seat at a luncheon or dinner and resumed when returning to the drawing-room. Any innovation in turning gloves back and tucking them about the wrist is to be avoided. At a tea-table or when playing cards gloves are inappropriate. At a standing-up supper one may keep on gloves. A hostess wears gloves at an evening partym but not when receiving before a dinner or luncheon. At a garden party a hostess who expects to go out among her guests may wear a hat.

For graduating gowns girls wear white organdy, mull, point d'esprit, or soft silk, high in the neckor with a yoke which may be changed for summer evening dances.

For morning wear at home women may use charming negligees, but these must be of the daintiest, freshest sort. Breakfast jackets are of silk, crepe, batiste, or flannel, with lace or embroidery. Gowns in pale colors or black may be of crepe with chiffon or embroidery, or lawn over silk in warm weather.

Women who have passed their first youth are careful to study the style of dress adapted to their coloring and figure. Materials of the hadsomest sort must be chosen by older women. They need not always wear black, although a black gown of velvet, satin or brocade with white lace is always becoming. Lace jabots and collars are appropriate. The avoidance of harsh outlines in details will be satisfactory. Except for a walking gown for utility elderly women should wear long skirts and study long lines in the effect. In summer the materials chosen by older women are foulard, etamine, veiling or dimity for morning use; grenadine, soft silk or black net for evening.

Young women in summer in the country wear white duck or linen skirts and shirt-waists in the morning, and in the afternoon, foulard, organdy or batiste.

Of late years flowers have been completely banished from wear. Violets are the one exception to the rule and they may be worn at any time, with any dress.